Loco-Moco: A Hilo Original, by John Penisten- Tropi-Ties, Fall 2001

One such local favorite island dish that is the result of this cross-cultural merging and blending of cuisines is the "loco moco" which had its origins in Hilo on the Big Island of Hawai`i. Despite its Spanish-sounding name, loco-moco is a distinctly local Hawaiian-style edible. The loco-moco is one of Hilo's most popular and perhaps most unique contributions to Hawai`i's diverse culinary tradition. According to Rudy Legaspi, recently retired Executive Assistant to the Mayor of Hawai`i County and admitted loco-moco fanatic,

"The loco-moco had its origins with the Lincoln Wreckers Athletic Club, an informal organization for local teenagers, in the late 1940's. The group used to hang-out at the Lincoln Grill Restaurant across the street from Lincoln Park in downtown Hilo."

Legaspi is a former member and unofficial historian of the famed Lincoln Wreckers club. According to Legaspi, the Lincoln Wreckers, who played in the local "bare-foot" football league of the time, had some success on the field, but its main claim to fame was their creation of the "loco-moco." The popular local dish has become a staple on restaurant menus throughout the islands and is a recognized cultural cuisine icon, as much as a taco is to Mexican fare or a pizza to Italian fare. The loco moco story began in 1949, after Richard and Nancy Inouye opened the Lincoln Grill Restaurant. The teens used to hang-out at the eatery, playing the pin-ball machines, cards, dropping nickels in the Wurlitzer jukebox and constantly feeding their hungry appetites. And in those days, when teens didn't have much money in their pockets, the standard fare was a bowl of saimin noodles or a hamburger, things which didn't quite fill the always hungry teens.

So the club devised a plan to ask the Inouyes to create a special dish just for them, something filling and affordable. For the task, the Wreckers nominated a guy nicknamed "Crazy" for his wild and madcap play on the football field. "Crazy" approached the Inouyes with the club's request and the rest is history.

The original loco-moco consisted of a saimin bowl of hot rice, covered with a hamburger patty and generously smothered with rich brown gravy, all for just .25 cents. Somewhere along the line, a fried egg was added, topping off the dish and adding some color. The name of the dish came later when it became a favorite and one of the most requested off-the-menu items at the Lincoln Grill. Since "Crazy" made the initial request for a special dish just for the club, the group named it in his honor, using the Spanish word "loco" for "Crazy." The word "moco" was added later for no other reason than it rhymed and had a nice ring about it. And thus was born the humble "loco-moco."

The Lincoln Grill continued serving up loco-mocos until it closed in 1963. But the popular dish caught on and it wasn't long before most of the lunch-counters, drive-ins, cafes and restaurants in Hilo began offering their own versions of the popular local-dish. It eventually spread throughout the Hawaiian Islands. Today, loco-moco can be found on many lunch menus throughout the islands.

There are many variations of the loco-moco but the essential ingredients of a bowl of hot rice, topped with a meat entree, brown gravy and an egg remain the same. The meat variations include bacon, ham, kalua pork, Portuguese sausage, teriyaki beef, teriyaki chicken, mahimahi fish, shrimp, oyster and several others. And, of course, there is also a "spam loco moco." There are even Korean and Chinese versions in some places.

Some of the more popular loco-moco outlets in Hilo include Blane's Drive-In (217 Waianuenue Avenue, 969-9494 and 150 Wiwoole Street, 935-2259), L&L Drive Inn (315 Makaala Street in Waiakea Food Pavilion, 935-3888 and 438 Kinoole Street near Lincoln Park, 934-0888), and Ryan's Restaurant (399 E. Kawili Street, 933-1335).

However, Cafe 100 (969 Kilauea Avenue, 935-8683) in Hilo is recognized today as the place to get loco moco. The local-style eatery has one of the more extensive loco-moco menus featuring some twenty varieties. According to Gloria Kobayashi, co-manager of Cafe 100, "Besides our regular loco-moco (with hamburger and egg) the most popular versions are the 'Super' and the 'Kilauea'." The Super Loco-Moco consists of a bowl of rice, two eggs, hamburger patty, a slice of spam and Portuguese sausage. The Kilauea Loco-Moco has a bowl of rice, two eggs, hamburger patty, a slice of spam, four smoky link sausages, a scoop of chili on the rice and a small side of Korean kim chee and a scoop of macaroni salad. And it's only $4. It's a very filling, hard to beat breakfast or lunch bargain. Loco-moco comes in small and large versions and usually range from $3-6. So it's not a budget-breaker.

When you're next in the Hawaiian Islands or passing through Hilo at lunch time and want to try a genuine local original, head for the nearest drive-in, lunch counter, cafe or restaurant and check out the loco-moco menu. And if it's not on the menu, ask for it. They'll probably make one for you special. You don't even have to be "Crazy," just hungry.

Bon appetit with Aloha!